Monday, 20 April 2026
This morning we were up early to drive out to Kata Tjuṯa to hike the Valley of the Winds Walk while it was relatively cool. Kata Tjuṯa means ‘many heads’ in Pitjantjatjara. This spectacular landform, 50 kilometres from Uluru, is an Anangu mens’ site considered sacred under traditional law.
Before we even started the go harder, go further, go stronger boy was saying – and after this we can do the Walpa Gorge Walk. Whaaaaat??! How about we get this walk done and then see how we’re feeling and how hot it is. It’s a Grade 4 walk AND I had been told that we were going to do the 7.4 km, full circuit walk because once you’ve hiked in as far as Karingana Lookout, all the Grade 4 sections are behind you and it’s actually easier to complete the circuit.
We set off from the start of the walk and reached Karu Lookout just over one kilometre later. On days that are forecast to be 36°C or hotter the track beyond this point is closed at 11.00am. It was not going to be quite that hot today, only 31°C, but we still wanted to finish by about 11.30am-noon. Photography is not permitted at Karu lookout, so we turned right to continue onto the Grade 4 section of track to Karingana Lookout. The climb was strenuous but manageable. At least I managed to do it on two feet unlike some (much) younger girls who we saw using their hands and feet to virtually crawl up the slope!!
Karingana Lookout is also considered a sensitive site with no photography allowed. We were a bit confused because the view from the lookout is amazing and it is frustrating to have a sign saying that photography is not permitted. We understand that the site is sensitive but we felt it was unclear if it was only the lookout where photography was not allowed, or if it meant that the panoramic view that can be seen from the lookout is also sensitive?? A little bit of context around what is sensitive and why would help visitors to understand the restrictions a bit better. More signs, similar to those on the Uluru Base Walk, would also help identify where the restricted zones begin and end. We possibly (probably) took photos that we shouldn’t have, not because we intended to be disrespectful but because we were confused.
From the second lookout we continued east down the hill. This section was steep but had steps that made the descent easier. When we reached the bottom we turned left to complete the full circuit along a much easier track that goes around the base of the outcrop. It was warm and sunny but not too warm, because there was a lovely breeze blowing. I guess it’s not called the Valley of the Winds walk for no reason.
Like yesterday, the landscape was lush and green. There were carpets of purple wildflowers that looked spectacular. These in turn were attracting plentiful butterflies … and birds. The birds were elusive though, and it was more a case of hearing their calls rather than seeing them. And still we haven’t seen anything larger, like an emu, and no mammals at all. The only kangaroos that we have seen have been on a couple of those yellow and black road signs warning drivers to watch for kangaroos.
On our return to the car park I was doing OK! Despite having a lot of trouble with a dodgy ankle for months now, it had stood up to the rigours of the hike and, despite it being around 30°C now, I wasn’t completely exhausted. So, we drove around to the Walpa Gorge car park and ate our sandwiches that we purchased at the IGA yesterday. Bernie followed his sanga with an apple, I opted for chocolate. I needed chocolate if I was going to do another walk, albeit ‘only’ a short Grade 3 walk!
Walpa (windy) Gorge is a desert refuge for plants and animals. The track is rocky but slopes gently upwards for about a kilometre to an ephemeral stream. The stream has all but dried up at the moment and is more a large puddle with a trickle of water flowing from it. Many of the plants inside the gorge are rare and especially adapted to the microclimate of the gorge. There was an interpretative board detailing some of the wildlife that calls the gorge home but the hill kangaroos and echidnas eluded us today.
We walked back out to the car and made our way to the Kata Tjuṯa sunset viewing area to scout it out for later. We started the day with no plans for this evening but during the day we have decided that we will drive back out this evening for another sunset experience. We may not come this way again, so feel it’s prudent to pack in as many experiences as possible.
Continuing our drive back to Yulara we stopped at the Kata Tjuṯa Dune Viewing Area. This a short walk along boardwalks to the top of a sand dune with views to both Kata Tjuṯa and Uluru. Quite a spectacular stop with more interesting interpretative boards about the desert flora and fauna. As we were walking back down the boardwalk a tour group was heading up so we felt fortunate that we had enjoyed the view from the top of the dune before they arrived. And despite all of this foot traffic we were surprised to see a lizard perched on the side of the boardwalk!
Back in town we popped into the IGA. I thought I packed another tube of toothpaste but, I did not! While we were there we picked up another box of water but the ice-cream freezer was bare and … there was no Coke No Sugar for Bernie. From the IGA we had to drive around to the Shell Servo to pick up those essentials. We would have preferred to pay supermarket prices because two ice-creams and three Cokes set us back almost $30.00.
By the time we parked the car back at the Outback Hotel & Lodge it was Splice o’clock and then time for a refreshing (very refreshing!) dip in the pool. After an hour relaxing with our books poolside, we showered and dressed to drive back out to watch the sun set on the western face of Kata Tjuṯa. Another glorious, red rock sunset. Beautiful. We haven’t seen many rangers about but tonight one arrived at the sunset viewing area just before 7.00pm. We were back at the truck ready to head off but suspect if we hadn’t been, that he/she might have been giving us the hurry up to make sure we were back out of the park gates by closing time at 8.00pm.
We dropped our cameras back to the room then ventured over to the Outback BBQ and Bar, where we opted for the self-cook steak and salad meal again. We’ve only cooked a couple of evening meals for ourselves to date so we are continuing to spend a bit of cash on our evening meals. Hopefully we’ll be able to cook some more meals for ourselves later in the week at Alice Springs where we are booked into cabin style accommodation with some cooking facilities.
Steps: 12,513 (13.86kms)
