Saturday, 2 May 2026
Ah, Kakadu so much wetter and, at the same time, so much drier than we expected it to be. Because it was the biggest wet season in about 10 years this year, we have been surprised (and a little frustrated) by how inaccessible some areas of the park have been. But, we think that we also expected the majority of the park to be like the Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudjba) part of the park with its huge billabong and the swollen reaches of the South Alligator River. We have been surprised by the rocky escarpments and the extent of the savannah woodlands, which are much higher and drier than the rivers and billabongs. And thank goodness for that or we may not have been able to see anything!
I forgot to mention from Greg’s commentary yesterday, that the Alligator Rivers (East, West and South) were named between 1818 and 1820 by the unimaginative and taxonomically incorrect English navigator and explorer, Philip Parker King. When he saw the saltwater crocodiles he mistook them for alligators and then proceeded to name not one, but three, rivers for the ‘alligators’. Oops. But the time the mistake was acknowledged, it was deemed too expensive to change all the documents and maps that recorded them as the East, West and South Alligator Rivers.
This morning we planned to drive south-west along the Kakadu Highway to the Mary River region of the park. We had been told yesterday that the Yurmikmik walks were open and we hoped, but didn’t expect, that we might be able to get as far as Gunlom, which is famous for having been used as a location for ‘Crocodile Dundee’. On our way out to the highway we spotted a couple of macropods still out and about grazing by the roadside. We’ve been surprised about how little wildlife we have been seeing so it was nice to see them jump away into the bush.
From the highway, we turned off at Gimbat Road, where we were soon confronted with a sign that confirmed the Yurmikmik walks were open BUT the road was impassible at South Alligator River. That confirmed that we would not be able to drive into Gunlom. We headed off onto the unsealed 2WD road noting that the proviso of it only being 4WD accessible during wet season still applied! It was rough. There was a caravan symbol on our map at Gunlom but we were thinking the road is going to need some remediation work before anyone will be taking a van in this season??
We drove past the turnout for the Kambolgie Campground and the Yurmikmik Carpark because we wanted to see how impassable it actually was at the South Alligator River. The road deteriorated further and, eventually, we arrived at a locked gate advising that the road was, most definitely, closed. Now we had imagined that we would reach an open expanse of potentially croc-infested water but, no. It was a locked gate with some seriously churned up mud beyond and not even really a glimpse of water. We took photos of the gate and the crocodile warnings and turned the truck around to return to the Yurmikmik (Boulder Creek) Carpark … which had red and white tape strung across its entrance.
What?! We were told yesterday that this part of the park is open. We left the truck outside the tape and wandered into the car park. There are magnificent, new toilets in the car park, but they were barricaded off with ‘Do Not Enter Construction Zone’ signs. They looked complete, they looked usable. There were even pans and doors on the cubicles. I was very tempted to clamber through the tape and christen them. However, rule abiding citizen that I am, I used the bush toilet instead, ha, ha.
We were planning to do the Boulder Creek Walk from this car park, but even the walk was barricaded off. It looked like the wet season had washed away the far end of the bridge, so the bridge had been closed, making the walk inaccessible. Damn. Another couple pulled up on the road, also looking for the Yarmikmik walks. However, they had been given the tip to drive past the first car park to the second Yarmikmik (Motor Car Falls) car park. As it happened, we had driven past this un-signposted turn out, but could not see from Gimbat Road that it lead to a car park. Thank goodness we were given the heads up by the passersby.
From this car park we could do the Motor Car Falls Walk (7.5km return), Boulder Creek Walk (2km return), Yurmikmik Lookout Walk (5km return) or Kurrundie Creek Walk (11km and a permit required). We ruled out the two longest walks and decided we’d attempt one, maybe both of the others. We set out on a nice, easy trail which we followed until we reached the cross-roads.
Hmmn, the nice, easy trail headed onwards toward the Motor Car Falls. The left hand trail was to the lookout and the right hand one to Boulder Falls. Let’s do the hardest one first says go harder boy and strikes out to the left. The path wasn’t too bad for the first section that followed alongside a fence. However, it then struck out into long reeds with few markers. Of course I was freaking out about S-N-A-K-E-S but Bernie was just carrying on regardless. We continued a bit further and then the markers seemed to stop completely.
We had reached some elevation by this stage so took a few photos before it was agreed that we would return the way we had come, rather than bush bash our way further up the hill. Why, why, why do I always let Bernie talk me into these outdoor pursuits that make me so uncomfortable? The walking tracks at Uluru and Watarrka were much more clearly marked and better maintained. The difference may be down to being here so early in the dry season after an especially wet, wet season??
Back at the crossroads, a couple appeared from the Boulder Falls track. They assured us it was a reasonably easy walk and that the small waterfall was worth the effort. So, off we went on another overgrown path because there was the promise of a waterfall at the end. It was so hot though! It may have been an easy walk but not so much in the heat. It was such a relief to finally reach the creek and the very, very small waterfall and sit in the shade for a while. While we were resting we could see through the trees that we actually needed to walk a bit further to reach the actual waterfall.
Finally, we made it to the waterfall where people were wild swimming. Sure, it would be nice to swim and very refreshing BUT, when you the have to hike a kilometre back to the car park, you just end up all hot and sweaty again! After our rest at the Boulder Creek/Waterfall we set our hot and sweaty selves on the path back to the truck.
As we were walking I was saying to Bernie how insane we were to be walking this overgrown track with only our hiking boots on and that we should be wearing long pants or gaiters. And right about then a young couple caught up to us. They’d been wild swimming. She was wearing a short denim skirt over her bikini, he was in board shorts and they each had a towel draped over their shoulders. Then, on their feet, OMG, Birkenstock sandals for her and Adidas slides for him!!! What was a thinking worrying about snake bite when I was at least covered to my lower calf??! They probably had a good laugh at the old couple in their long-sleeved shirts, broad brimmed hats and hiking boots.
We ate our sandwiches in the air-conditioned comfort of the truck. Never mind the cost of the diesel to run the a/c, we were so hot and sweaty and needed to get cool. We had talked about trying to find the waterhole somewhere below the Ikoymarrwa Lookout. The ranger told us yesterday it is a pretty spot, but not well signposted. However, as we walked back from Boulder Falls, I had said to Bernie that I thought that I had had quite enough nature for today and would prefer to swim back at Cooinda Lodge!
Back at the ranch it was Splice o’clock and then time to hit the pool. There was a group of girls ‘rescuing’ bugs from the pool. We’re not entirely sure whether they were flying bugs that were drowning or water bugs that were quite happy to be in the pool? It was hilarious though, the care these girls were taking scooping up these bugs and depositing them in a rapidly growing colony of rescued bugs on the side of the pool.
At some point during the afternoon, Bernie had realised that Richmond’s game was being played today. After our dip, he was delighted to return to our room to catch most of the game that Richmond won, for their first win of the 2026 season.
Steps: 9,224 (5.85kms)
