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Dang! Headed out this morning dressed for warm weather and … it was quite a bit cooler than it was yesterday afternoon. But not as cold as Ireland! There had also been some rain overnight so I was paranoid about how slippery the paths might be. Especially the ones paved with smooth, round river stones. Carmen told us last night about the intricate black and white stone paving that is found throughout the city. The stones come from the local Darro and Genil Rivers and Carmen did say which river has the black stone and which the white, but I cannot recall which is which. Anyway, artisans lay the stones in a variety of patterns ranging from herringbone to floral to Heraldic. A common motif is the pomegranate with the fruit being the symbol of Granada. Granada is, in fact, the Spanish word for pomegranate.
We made it without incident to the Monastero de San Jerónimo for our first stop of the day. The construction of the monastery dates from the early 16th century following the Catholic Conquest in 1492. The Catholic Monarchs appointed Diego de Siloe to complete the project with the order of the Hieronymites living at the monastery until the Napoleonic invasion in 1810.
Although the building was originally conceived as a Gothic-style building it is now considered one of the most iconic examples of Renaissance Granada. Extensively restored in the 20th and 21st centuries the cloisters look out onto mature orange trees and feature seven doors leading to seven chapels.
A large part of the construction was financed by the widow of El Gran Capitan one of Spain’s great military leaders, and both are buried in the Church of San Jeronimo that stands in one of the corners of the monastery. Wow! We had been wandering in and out of the side chapels surrounding the cloisters none of which prepared us for the grandeur of the church. Built in the 16th century it deserves its reputation as one of the most spectacular churches in Granada.
Our next stop was at the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel). Bernie pre-purchased a combination ticket for three venues, so this was number two on the list. In 1504 Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand decided that Granada would be their final resting place and a Royal Warrant was signed for the creation of the Royal Chapel together with legal rights over funds that would guarantee its welfare. The chapel was built by Enrique Egas in the Gothic style with work commencing in 1505 one year after the Queen died. Work was finished in 1517 one year after the King passed away but it was 1521 before Emperor Charles V ordered that the remains of his grandparents be transferred to the chapel in accordance with their wishes.
The likenesses of the Catholic Monarchs were carved into impressive marble tombs by Florentine sculptor Domenico Fancelli. There are four effigies above the crypt. Isabella and Ferdinand of course then Philip ‘the Handsome’ and his wife Joanna ‘the Mad’ (Isabella’s and Ferdinand’s daughter) are seen in repose beside them. There are steps down to the crypt below and this is where the remains are housed in austere lead coffins. It is said that the remains of up to nine monarchs are housed in the tomb but only the fours are commemorated in marble.
The chapel is incorporated into the Catedral which was commenced in 1523. So many incredible buildings here all sort of shoehorned into each other with the Capilla Real, the Church of Sagrario and the Catedral almost indistinguishable as separate edifications and all of them built on the former site of the Great Mosque that existed before the Catholic Conquest.
We walked back around the corner to the Catedral which is dedicated to the Virgin of the Incarnation. For a time after the burial chapel for the monarchs was completed the old mosque served as a cathedral but work was eventually commenced in 1523 to replace the mosque with a cathedral in the Renaissance style. Although ready for use in 1561 work continued for nearly 200 years with various architects involved along the way. The final result is a mixture of Renaissance and Gothic styles.
The interior towers above visitors in white and gold. It is less decorative than the church we saw this morning at the monastery but more impressive in terms of sheer size at 115-metres long and 67-metres wide. The two large, gilded 18th-century pipe organs in the nave are something to behold. Oh, to have heard those playing.
So, those were the three sites on our ticket. Along the way we photographed more amazing buildings featuring decorative facades. Nearly every single building is beautiful even though so many have been reimagined and re-purposed over time. One building that we ventured into was built during the Islamic period, spent time as the City Hall and is now one of the University’s buildings. The building still has many of its Islamic features on the inside, but the façade was changed significantly when it was repurposed as City Hall. Since the Alhambra and the Albaicín district gained UNESCO World Heritage Status it no longer easy to change buildings as the historic urban landscape is protected.
We purchased some lunch on our way past a small shop selling empanadas and other tasty savoury pastries taking them back to the apartment to eat. After a couple of hours lazing about, we headed off to Hammam Al Ándalus to relax in the baths and treat ourselves to massages. Our package included 45 minutes in the Arab baths (cool, warm and warmer) and steam room, a 15-minute purification ritual on a hot stone bed – read that us watered, soaped and scrubbed with an abrasive mit – and a 30-minute relaxing massage. We left feeling very mellow and in the mood for gelato on our way back ‘home’. After the somewhat hectic pace we set in Ireland today has been very chilled out.
Off out to a late dinner at one of the restaurants recommended by hour host, Paco. Apple Maps was set to navigate us to Restaurant Mas que Vinos. We headed down a different alley on our way out and I still can’t quite get my head around how we popped out in a completely different location from if we take the other alley?! These alleys that wind between the buildings packed onto the side of the hill are confusing. Especially for someone as directionally challenged as I am.
We walked past the statue of Queen Isabella and Christopher Columbus in the Plaza Isabel La Católica then down a lane until Apple Maps said we had passed our destination. Hmmn, Bernie switched to Google Maps, and we re-traced our steps. Aha, there it is, not on the lane as such, but down yet a narrower lane. We walked in and we were seated straight away. The menu wasn’t really tapas style, so we were a little at a loss what to order and how much to order?
After some complimentary jamón (ham) and olivos to go with Bernie’s beer, we ordered some croquettes and a platter of more jamón and queso (cheese) which came garnished with almonds and walnuts and a basket of bread. Still feeling peckish we ordered some grilled octopus. Good choice said our waiter, my favourite. After finishing that we were conned into homemade cheesecake to finish. And Bernie had to drink two shots of complimentary limoncello!!
Steps: 13,438 (8.65kms)