After our late-night last night and the heat, we were both feeling a bit flat this morning. Maybe it is just being six weeks into our holiday that has worn us out? We even hit the snooze button and cadged another half an hour in bed before getting motivated to re-pack and get ourselves back to the railway station. After settling our bill, we had reception ring a taxi for us. It arrived within moments and whisked us off to the station. We were very early for our train. We possibly could have cadged another half an hour in bed?!
Our train was on time. We managed to get ourselves and our luggage on board in the two minutes that the train was at the platform. There was no-one in our seats but another couple of guys boarding had people in their seats. Oh no, the elderly couple said we have these seats until Córdoba. Um, this IS Córdoba they were told. If this had been us, I would have panicked, gathered our stuff really quickly and galloped off the train in fear that it would pull out with us still on board. Not this couple they faffed about gathering there stuff together and ambled off the train. They made it! I was more stressed for them than they were!
We (well definitely, I) slept through most of an entirely uneventful train trip to Madrid. More agriculture, lots more olives and a couple of stands of eucalyptus trees interspersed with a few towns where passengers boarded and disembarked. After two hours and nearly 400 kilometres we pulled in on time at Estación Madrid – Puerta de Atocha. We hauled ourselves and our gear off the train without any trouble and made our way into the station. We had a moment’s concern when we arrive at the taxi rank to find it fenced off with temporary fencing. Bernie spied a taxi though that came into the station, executed a loop and drove back out to the street. He left me with the cases to see if he could see where it had gone to. He reported back that it looked like the taxis were using the street outside as a temporary taxi rank.
We wheeled our cases up to the street and along to the taxi at the head of the queue. Once again, we were not competing for a cab we were the only people looking for one. Perhaps other travellers were more confused about the absence of cabs inside the station?? We ‘could’ have attempted to negotiate the Metro between Puerta de Atocha and the station near our accommodation, but we decided on the easy option again. Our lady driver – again with crazy long nails – dropped us as close as possible to our apartment. She couldn’t are us right to the door as the apartment is in a pedestrianised zone. No problem, it was not far to shell our cases to the door where we met our host just arriving back at the building after running some errands.
Irene took us upstairs to 1851 a 19th century studio apartment, our home away from home for the next five nights and explained how to operate the three keys (street level gate, door to corridor, door to apartment) and the lights (so many lights and light switches!) before leaving us to settle in. We took stock, Bernie changed into his sandals, and we headed off to the supermarket for supplies. Phew, with five nights in Madrid we decided we were going to have to make a second trip later on for the beer and water! As we walked back to the apartment, we grabbed some food for a late lunch and, naturally, scoped out the ice-cream shops nearby.
After eating the plan was to go out for a short walk to orient ourselves. We headed back downstairs to Calle de Carretas and turned right. Yay, La Deliceria, the first heladería in that direction had both café and limón so we both ordered two scoops of ice-cream in our favourite flavours. Even though we are in central Madrid the ice-creams are much better priced than they were in Córdoba. And they had cones large enough for two scoops!
We walked towards Palacio Real de Madrid, the Royal Palace of Madrid. Bernie booked tickets for the palace, but they have been cancelled due to an event, but we thought that we could at least walk over to look at the outside and visit the Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Amudena which is across the Plaza de la Armenia from the palace.
On the way we walked through the enormous Plaza Mayor where we photographed the Equestrian Monument to King Felipe III of Spain. With one hoof raised the statue is allegedly alluding to Felipe III being injured in battle, but not necessarily dying as a result. We popped into the Tourist Information Centre to pick up a map of Madrid and then continued on our way to the cathedral and palace.
Arriving at the cathedral first we headed in. The cathedral stands in the area of Madrid built during Spain’s Hapsburg period between 1516 and 1700 although the cathedral itself is more recent. The cathedral’s history is complicated. Originally it was destined to be church that would hold a pantheon for the late Queen Maria de la Mercedes and the foundation stone was laid in 1883. However, Pope Leo VIII upgraded Madrid-Alcalá to a bishopric in 1885 so the plans had to be upgraded to a cathedral. Architect, Francisco de Cubas, revised his plans drawing inspiration from the French 18th century Gothic style.
The plan was for the cathedral to be funded by the people for the people, but donations were insufficient and there were delays in carrying out the work. When Cubas died in 1899 he was replaced by three architects. The crypt was opened in 1911 but then work was ceased during the Civil War. When work resumed in 1939 resources were limited and aesthetic tastes had changed. Nobody wanted a Gothic cathedral anymore! In 1944 a competition was held to find a new architectural solution. In 1950 work restarted under Chueca Goitia and Carlos Sidro. The cloisters were finished in 1955 and the main façade in 1960. The cathedral was finally considered complete in 1993. It was consecrated by Pope John Paul II on the 15th of June 1993 meaning we visited on it’s 31st anniversary.
We continued across the plaza to the palace. Hmmn, it sure looked like people were purchasing tickets to visit the palace so maybe we CAN see the interior after all? Bernie booked a tour and when it was cancelled, they certainly didn’t suggest that we should try to purchase self-guided or general admission tickets! Not helpful. Even though it was 5.00pm we jumped on the end of the queue and minutes later we were in.
The palace is like Spain’s Buckinham Palace being the official residence of the King and Queen of Spain, Felipe VI and Queen Letizia. Prior to Felipe V the monarchs lived in the Alcázar on this site modifying and extending it during the 15th and 16th centuries. In the 18th century after the Alcázar was destroyed by fire, Felipe V decided to build the Royal Palace on the same site. Work was not finished during his reign, and it fell to Fernando VI to complete the construction. Carlos III modified the palace further and completed all of the interior decoration becoming the first King to inhabit the palace in 1764.
During Isabella II’s reign (1833-68) the Parade Ground was completed, and the Park was landscaped. By the time of Alfonso XII (1875-85) it was time to start renovating the interior. He also had the Armory and the Almudena (cathedral) built. Thinking that we were not going to see the inside of the palace at all we were delighted to be able to make our way around the State Rooms including the Hall of Columns, the Antechamber and Chamber of Carlos III, the Banqueting Hall and the Throne Room all accessed via a grand Main Staircase.
And at this point we thought we were done. With the crowds thinned out we took some more photos of the façade of the palace and then headed to the corner expecting to exit the palace grounds. Ha, bonus, we found ourselves in the Royal Armoury instead. The Armoury was established by Felipe II to bring together his father Emperor Carlos V’s arms and armour – including a few earlier pieces – and his own. The pieces were crafted in Augsburg and Milan during the peak period in the history of arms and armour for tournaments and chivalric combat. It was the most comprehensive display of armour for man, horse, dog and child that we have ever seen.
Now we really were done, and we headed back towards the apartment arriving ‘home’ at about 7.30pm. So, our short orientation walk took us FOUR HOURS!! That’s crazy but at least we were able to see the jewel in Madrid’s crown the amazing Royal Palace of Madrid.
About 8.00pm we headed into one of the back streets nearby to Fatigas del Querer. We had looked at some of the host’s recommendations, but they were either booked out on a Saturday night or they were fine dining establishments too pricey for us! We love the Spanish food, but we are struggling a bit with knowing how much to order. Tonight, we didn’t order any starter just two mains, an oxtail stew and Spanish omelette (tortilla). Just the stew would have been plenty! We’re going to start ordering less – one main to share. Better to order more IF we are still hungry.
Steps: 14,096 (8.73kms)