Swakopmund to Damaraland

Thursday, 29 May 2025

OK, it’s Monday and I’m attempting to record last Thursday’s memories for the second time. I spent time recording today’s activities on Saturday BUT LOST ALL OF IT on Saturday night. We had success with getting a post up for yesterday so we are sort of back on track, if several days behind. I think we always knew there could be some technical difficulties on this trip with potentially no and/or unreliable internet.

The truck pulled out of the station (aka Swakopmund Hotel) at 8.00am and turned onto the C34 heading north towards Henties Bay. Heading north along the coast we could actually see the Atlantic Ocean today on our left without a heavy fog clinging to the coastline. There were no dunes though, it was flat, flat, flat with none of the golden sand dunes that feature between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay.

We passed the settlement of Wlotzkasbaken which Wian told us is where many Germans come to holiday and get away from it all. The really do get away from it all with no power or water connected. When they arrive for their holidays they have to buy water and have it pumped into their tanks.

Arriving in Henties Bay a bit before 9.00am we made a quick pit stop for fuel, loos and coffees and were back on the C34 by 9.10am. We crossed the Omaruru River before turning right onto the C35 heading towards Uis and back into the desert. The road was great … for a while but then we endured kilometres of gravel ‘detour’ running beside the new road that is under construction.

We stopped for a photo opportunity in a spot where, on a clear day, you can see five mountain ranges. Today, Wian was able to point out four of those ranges to us with the most impressive by far being Brandberg, Namibia’s highest mountain at 2,573 metres.

There were roadside stalls along our route that featured mannequins in elaborate traditional dress and/or models of African animals to attract attention. The stalls all seemed to be selling rough gemstones. I think their deal is that even if you don’t buy a gemstone they expect you to pay money to photograph their crazily decorated stall.

We pulled in at Brandberg Village a roadhouse in Uis for another comfort stop. On the outskirts of Uis was a massive mullock heap bearing testament to Uis’s mining history. The mines here have extracted both tin and tantalite at different times, subject to market prices. Lithium can be found in the mine tailings but it is not currently being mined because the price has dropped making it unprofitable to pursue.

After our short stop we continued on the C35 towards Khorixas making one more quick photo stop to photograph Brandberg from another angle this time from the eastern flank. Then we were off onto the D2612 heading for the Onjamba Hills, rugged outcrops of jumbled red rock not entirely unlike what you can find in the Australian outback.

We drove up the side of one of the larger outcrops to find the magnificent Onjamba Hills Camp nestled on the side. We had a limited menu for (late) lunch because they had no bread. Wian told them they should have called as he would have been happy to buy bread and bring it out to them. No bread but they did have burger buns so it was pretty much beef burger or chicken burger all round!
 
After lunch our group headed out in two vehicles to search for the unique desert elephants that live in this area. These pachyderms have adapted to their semi-desert environment by having a smaller body mass with proportionally longer legs and seemingly larger feet than other elephants, meaning they can travel vast distances over arid dunes to reach water.

We headed north over the Ugab River and soon elephant footprints and droppings were spotted. We turned off into the scrub in search of the herd but, not finding anything, our guides stopped at a rocky outcrop which they climbed to try to spot the herd. Our driver, Unity, returned to the car and told us they had seen the elephants and had counted 17 of them. We headed off back into the scrub looking for these elephants. Elephants are BIG, how can they hide so well in the scrub?

Finally we found a bull elephant and soon after other members of the herd, including a calf. And they looked like regular elephants. We had been expecting them to look quite gangly from the description that was given of them but, apart from very big ears, they looked like elephants. We watched the herd for some time with Unity manoevering our vehicle to keep it ahead of the herd … but not too close!

The herd reached the road where they formed up to make their crossing. One of the bulls stood at the side of the road like a school crossing supervisor while the rest of the herd made its way across, all the time keeping the youngster in the middle of the herd. We counted 13 elephants across the road. Then just when we thought it was all over, four more elephants crossed behind the cars so that accounted for the full 17 that Unity had promised us. Awesome experience watching these magnificent animals.

As we drove back to Onjamba Hills we stopped for a quick refreshments break beside the Ugab River. So many activities come with a hospitality component and more often than not you’re not even hungry or thirsty! Unity dropped us back at our lovely glamping-style accommodation and now we had a chance to explore a little bit more before dinner. Our very fancy tents are attached to ensuite bathrooms and are very comfortably appointed. A few of us wandered up to the pool, but the pools here are COLD! The closest anyone got to swimming was Debbie dangling her feet in over the edge. The view down into the Ugab River Valley was picturesque and until about four weeks ago the river still had water in it. Now that wet season is over it is drying out quickly.

Back in our room, I typed up a couple of paragraphs summarizing yesterday’s activities but, all too soon, it was time to go down to dinner. Dinner tonight was a set menu under the stars. We started with soup, which was followed by coleslaw for entree, then steak and vegetables for main course. We finished with malva pudding with custard, a traditional Namibian desert that turned out to be a bit like a sticky date pudding.

Following dinner the staff welcomed us in song which was very enjoyable witnessing them performing traditional music and vocals. After the staff choir had left us, Wian took out his laser pointer and did a bit of star gazing with us. He said it’s not as fun doing it with Aussies becasue, of course, the constellations are nothing new to us. He finds it more interesting to show new stars to people from the northern hemisphere.

We returned to our room and I opened the iPad to find that what I typed before dinner was not there. WTF? Where has it gone? I’m supposed to be working on the iPad now so where can it have gone? The IT Guy said – don’t panic, you will probably find that next time we have a good wi-fi connection it won’t be gone at all. Hmmn, we shall see. Decided to just leave it alone for the time being and read my book instead.

Steps: 7,040 (4.78kms)