Tuesday, 5 August 2025
This morning was a perfect day to be in the Flinders Ranges with a cerulean blue sky and sun, sun, sun. Absolutely beautiful. We made ourselves some breakfast then drove to Wilpena Pound, where we parked the truck at the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park Visitor Centre. Bernie had already purchased our National Parks pass so we popped that on the dashboard and headed into the Visitor Centre.
We collected the ‘Nature Walks from Wilpena Pound Resort’ map then used the facilities before commencing the Hill’s Homestead/Wangara Lookouts walk(s). Many of the walks share the same route from the Visitor Centre to Hill’s Homestead. It’s a lovely easy track which is actually a road. Probably a fire access track? But also used to run the shuttle bus into Wilpena Pound. We walked all the way, but hikers who want to shave two kilometres off their walk can be dropped off by the shuttle. From the drop-off point you can choose to walk into Hill’s Homestead (EASY 2 hours – 6.6km return), hike up to the Wangara Lookouts (MODERATE 3 hours – 7.8km return) or slog all the way out to St.Mary Peak via the Inside Trail (STRENUOUS 9 hours – 21.5km return). Honestly though? The nine hour hike was never on the agenda!!
From the ‘end of the road’ we set out for the homestead on the Sliding Rock Trail. The trail skirts around a huge rock feature (Sliding Rock) before crossing Wilpena Creek. Along the trail we read interpretive signs giving an insight into local history from the perspective of the 12-year-old daughter of the first pioneer family to live at the homestead and an Adnyamathanha woman whose family also lived in the area, often working for the pioneer families, while trying to preserve their cultural heritage. After a gentle 3.3km walk, we arrived at the pretty stone homestead. The building had fallen into ruin, but was restored in 1995 to give visitors a better idea of the sort of home the pioneer family lived in.
Wangara Hill looms behind the homestead and we had to decide whether or not to tackle the climb up to the lookouts. With it having been an easy walk so far we decided that we had enough energy to manage a bit of a climb to see the views into Wilpena Pound from the lookouts. It was only 300 metres to the first lookout but it was already quite full with visitors, so we decided to continue to the upper lookout … another 400 metres of clambering over uneven and rudimentary steps worked into the steep, rocky slope.
We made it to the upper lookout and the panoramic view over Ikara – Wilpena Pound was outstanding on such a gorgeous day. Wilpena Pound Resort and the Visitor Centre sit on the eastern flank of Wangara Hill so, on the outside of the large natural amphitheater that is known as Wilpena Pound. Wilpena Pound consists of a large flat area surrounded by peaks. It was used for grazing from 1850 until around 1901 when the Hill Family decided to try farming despite the fact that crop growing had never been attempted so far north. After a major flood in 1914 the Hills sold their homestead to the government and it became a forest reserve leased for grazing. In 1945 the area’s tourism potential was recognised and outdoor enthusiasts have flocked here ever since to enjoy the spectacular countryside.
From the upper lookout we descended to the lower lookout. As soon as we stood on the lower platform we appreciated that the view from the upper lookout was definitely worth the extra effort. We made our way back down to the homestead and used the facilities there before commencing the return walk. We decided to walk back via the Top Track. From the higher track we had a fantastic view down onto Sliding Rock and across to Wangara Hill. From the shuttle drop of point we returned along the road to the Visitor Centre encountering three cheeky kookaburras (a riot of kookaburras!) in a tree along the way. It’s always a good day when you see kookaburras.
We purchased some sandwiches from the Visitor Centre shop and enjoyed them on the deck before making our way back to the truck to drive back to Rawnsley Park for a lazy afternoon. We made a quick detour via Rawnsley Park’s caravan park and shop, buying some ice-creams to put in the freezer in our cabin with a plan to eat them for dessert tomorrow night when we are going to buy take-away pizzas from the Woolshed Restaurant rather than eat in. Of course we probably should try to be more enthusiastic about cooking our own meals but … who wants to cook when on holidays??!
I have to confess that I had a nana nap after the exertion of this morning while Bernie, bless him, did our washing! Even with it being an afternoon wash, with the sun shining and the breeze blowing most things were mostly dry by the time they were brought in from the line. We just had to lay a few things out around the cabin to finish them off.
Off to the Woolshed Restaurant again tonight with both of us planning to try the roast chicken. Bee-Baw, that would be a ‘no’ with us being told up front that there was no chicken tonight. With lamb featuring strongly on the menu – it is a working sheep station afterall – we opted for the lamb casserole tonight. Lucky we like lamb! The waitress had a bit of a mishap when delivering our drinks dropping a glass and our bottle of sparkling water. An occupational hazard in hospitality. Fortunately only the empty glass broke and we were not showered with sparkling water. Phew!
Steps: 16,124 (10.62kms)
