Friday, 15 May 2026
This morning we started out in the wrong direction, having decided that we wanted to return to the Ord Dam and have a decent look at Lake Argyle. Yesterday’s excursion drove us across the dam wall BUT we did not stop at any viewpoints to have a look out across the huge expanse of Australia’s second largest dam. We both felt that our best to chance to appreciate the size of this body of water would be today, as we may never pass this way again?
We packed up and left our cabin at about 8.45am, to arrive at the dam by around 9.30am. After a quick look at the two viewpoints looking our over the dam, we drove across the dam wall for another look at the water gushing out of the hydroelectric plant. And that was with only two of the three outlets flowing. We spent about half an hour appreciating the engineering feat that is the Ord Dam, and then it was time to drive back to where we started from, so that we could start heading for today’s destination.
However, before we could really get underway, we had to top up the truck with premium diesel at the Caltex, and shop for something else that we are going to need when we are camping at Mount Barnet. Last night, when I was cleaning my teeth, I suddenly thought about the fact that towels will not be supplied for us when we are staying in our swag! We even talked about packing towels before we left home, but didn’t actually include any bath towels in all our gear, all we have are microfibre beach towels for swimming. Of course that meant yet another stop at Coles. Damn, no towels. There was a general store nearby where we paid an exorbitant amount for two very flimsy towels. They were $12.00 EACH. If only I had reached this realization when we were in Darwin and we could have shopped for towels at Spotlight!!?
Now, we could put Kununurra behind us and get on the road to Purnululu (the Bungle Bungles). Or could we? As we drove towards the bridge out of town, we passed a sign warning us of bridgeworks and to expect delays. Sure enough, we arrived at the bridge and the roadworks traffic management signal was red. We pulled up behind two police divvy vans to wait. And wait. Then the traffic controller came over to our side of the road and motioned us all to move further to the side of the road. All the vehicles pulled further to the left, onto the hard shoulder.
Then we waited some more. Then a WIDE LOAD escort vehicle came over the bridge. And we waited some more. Then a police escort vehicle – this one with blue flashing lights – came over the bridge, and the driver got out and asked all the vehicles waiting to move even further to the left. Then we waited some more.
Finally, FINALLY, two trucks carrying two huge pieces of machinery (mega crane?) inched their way over the bridge. We think the fit may have been to the millimetre, hence the super slow progress making their way across the bridge. And that was another half an hour during which we were not making any headway towards today’s destination. At least someone put out a thanks to everyone for their patience on UHF Channel 40.
At last we were motoring along the Victoria Highway heading west. At Dillon Springs we turned left, to continue on Highway 1, but now known as the Great Northern Highway and the Savannah Way. Another day on the road, more magnificent scenery as we made our way past Tier Range, Deception Range, the Saw Ranges, the Carr Boyd Ranges and the Ragged Range. We continued through Doon Doon and past the O’Donnell Range and Pompeys Pillar. At some point we must have passed the turn off to the Argyle Diamond Mine. The road into Argyle Village is marked on the map – No Public Access – and does not even seem to have road sign on the highway these days.
Arriving in Warmun (Turkey Creek), we pulled into the servo to top up the truck’s tank again, to make sure we have plenty of fuel to explore Purnululu. Very expensive diesel here at $3.60/litre. The shop attached to the petrol station was well stocked and we were able to purchase some very good, fresh sandwiches for what was now a late lunch.
After another 52 kilometres heading south, it was time to turn onto Spring Creek Track, heading for the APT Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge. We pulled into the information bay and let the tyres down to 30PSI, ready to negotiate the rocky 4WD track with wet creek crossings and washouts. The road winds and climbs its way over low rocky hills, which looked amazing in the late afternoon sunshine.
For the first 40 kilometres we were driving through the Mabel Downs Pastoral Lease before entering the national park. Fifty-three kilometres in we reached the ranger station and visitor centre which closed at 4.00pm and it was now 4.06pm. But for the delay getting over the bridge out of Kununurra, we would have made it. Not to worry, we were able to pick up a handy visitor guide to the park from a brochure holder beside the front door.
Reaching a T-intersection, we turned left onto Gorge Road and, after a few more water crossings, we arrived at the Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge. We checked in and we were shown to our tent. A pretty upmarket tent with a king size bed and an ensuite. Carissa guided us back to the car park and organised us with a little hand-pulled trailer to transfer our gear to our tent. The one drama we do have with our tent is – no power! We have low voltage lighting, but nowhere to plug in all our devices. And … no television or a/c. We are really roughing it now. A gradual adjustment leading up to the two nights when we have to actually camp!
We wandered up to the restaurant at 6.15pm. As we took our seats, we were relieved to note a charging station in the restaurant with dozens of charging points. We should be able to charge our power banks here and then charge our devices in our tent. Our evening meals and breakfasts are included in our room rate for the next three nights. At 6.30pm, the staff were introduced by the Maitre D’ and then the chef told us what we were being served for dinner tonight.
Hmmn, at check-in we were asked about any dietary requirements BUT, that doesn’t really apply for fussy buggers. We were both happy with sun-dried tomato bread with compounded butter for starters. Someone, was not so happy with mushroom risotto for entree, but struggled through it, picking out some of the larger pieces of mushroom. Main course of chicken mignon was good BUT the seasonal vegetables were beans and asparagus. Let’s just say, that I ate all the asparagus and someone else ate all the beans. Purnululu mousse for desert pleased everyone. The chocolate mouse had been painstakingly piped into little mounds representing the Purnululu Domes. Cute!
We seem to be having a bit of a ‘thing’ with praying mantises. Our dinner companion was another praying mantis – this one brown rather than green – sitting on our table throughout dinner.
Back in our tent, it is almost like working on our blog by candlelight with the low voltage lighting. On the plus side, even though the truck is parked a couple of hundred metres away, we are just within range to connect to our Starlink, so Bernie is busily uploading photos – on image at a time – and it looks like we will be able to post tonight.
Steps: 6,513 (4.22kms)
