Sunday, 17 May 2026
This morning when we woke it was oppressive and overcast and there was still the threat of rain. Bronwen and Lisa decided to cut their stay here short by a day because of concern about the rain and the possibility of being trapped out here in the wilderness. We were also a little worried but loathe to cut our time here short, as we have not yet explored the northern trails. We decided on something of a compromise. We packed up all our gear and took it with us for the day, but told the staff we planned to be back for dinner. We were heading for the opposite end of the park from the lodge. If it started to rain, we didn’t want to have to come past the access road to the highway to collect all our stuff. So, maybe a bit paranoid, but I prefer the other P-word, prepared.
Bronwen and Lisa left straight after breakfast. With the truck fully packed, we drove to the Park Visitor Centre & Ranger Station. We talked with the ranger, who told us they are not currently concerned about the rain forecast, as it is for only 15 millimeters. She said that it would need to rain torrentially for three to four hours before they would close the park. She assured us that they did not currently see this happening, but could not guarantee that it wouldn’t. However, she also said that only we could make the decision about whether we wanted to leave early or take our chances.
Deciding to take our chances, Bernie turned the truck’s nose back into the park. At the T-intersection we turned left to head towards the northern trails. Aargh, we had barely started on the track and we encountered a big boggy patch. After watching a 4WD tour bus tackle it, we churned our way through too. On the other side a large grey-brown bird crossed the road. Bernie said emu and I said, I don’t think so. Bernie soon agreed that it was not an emu but, what was it? My best guess was a bustard.
We made a quick stop at Stonehenge. Not at all like Stonehenge, it was named after a station that used to be in the area. No-one knows why the station owner chose to call it Stonehenge. We drove past The Bloodwoods parking area, all the way out to the Echidna picnic area. Damn, that’s where the bus full of tourists is. Rather than follow them into Echidna Chasm, we decided to drive back to The Bloodwoods. The trails available from this car park are: Bloodwoods Lookout, Mini Palms Gorge and Homestead Valley. A Class 3 – Moderate, 200 metre return to the lookout, a Class 5 – Extreme, 4.4 kilometre return into the gorge and a Class 3 – Moderate, 4.4 kilometre return into the valley.
So, even though the ranger recommended against it, we set out on the Mini Palms Gorge trail. It was described as difficult and challenging and the ranger had told us the drizzle may have made it more slippery and dangerous. The trail started out easily along the Escarpment Trail (to Echidna) then turned off to follow the dry, stony creek bed. The stones are not the easiest surface to walk on but OK as long as you watch your footing. The trail continued along some steep slopes, narrow edges and large boulders we had to climb under, over or squeeze between. At the end of the gorge we climbed stairs to a couple of viewing platforms surrounded by Livistona palms. It was a bit like Jurassic World. Totally worth the hike.
Returning to the car park we turned out onto the Bloodwoods Lookout trail. The name is inspired by the bloodwood trees (Corymbias but very closely related to Eucalypts) that are famous for exuding a thick, dark red sap that resembles blood. We had passed one beside the creek bed that had ‘bled’ a pile of sap beneath it which was rather gruesome looking. At the lookout we were looking out over the top of the bloodwood dominated woodlands and the northern escarpment of the Bungle Bungle Range.
Making it back to the car park without any turned ankles, we drove back to the Echidna picnic area where we ate a different variety of Ready-to-Eat Sirena Tuna. Today mine was with beans (edamame & sesame dressing) and Bernie’s was with beans (Mexican). While I am a bit concerned about the packaging, these are proving to be very convenient for a reasonably healthy lunch while we are out and about.
Fortified with 23/21 grams of protein (according to the packaging!) we first completed the Osmand Lookout trail, Class 3 – Moderate 1 kilometre return. This was a short walk with a moderate slope that took us to an elevated ridge with panoramic views of the ancient and rugged Osmand Range. Wow, talk about maximum view for minimum effort!
Next we set out to complete the Echidna Chasm trail. This one was rated Class 4 and 5 – Difficult to Extreme 2 kilometre return. I’m sure all of today’s walks would have been much more strenuous if the sun was shining. With the overcast conditions, today has just about been the coolest day we have had since we have been on holidays.
On the plus side, we didn’t have to deal with the sun as we hiked along the uneven, dry creek bed lined with Livistona palms. On entering the chasm, we had to negotiate some narrow sections before reaching the main chamber where it widened out. We were told yesterday that we should aim to be inside the chasm at about 11.20am to witness the chasm come to life as the sun passes overhead. So, that was the big minus, with no sun about today we hadn’t concerned ourselves with trying to catch the light show inside the chasm. We were lucky enough to get the perfect combination of weather and timing in Standley Chasm, so couldn’t be too upset about missing out today. Even with the overcast conditions the lighting was OK … and looked even better on our iPhones than to our naked eyes!!
Once again we made it back to the car park without injury. It was on this walk that Lisa (one of last night’s dinner companions) twisted her ankle yesterday. I think with that knowledge fresh in our minds, we may have been exercising just a little bit more caution. I know I was, as I certainly do not want to wreck my ankle. I’m sure my hiking boots are doing a great job of supporting my ankle joints and protecting me from injury. It’s just a shame that the chafing of my socks and boots on my skin means that I have a nasty case of my holiday hiking rash around my ankles. It’s not itchy or painful, so I think I’m happy to go with the unsightly, red and blotchy ankles rather than a twisted ankle??!
On our way back to the lodge we stopped in at the Kungkalanayi Lookout. Once again this was a short walk up an easy slope that involved minimum effort for not one, not two, but three amazing views. The dark chocolate-red ridge to the east was of the Bungle Bungle Range consisting of 550-500 million year old sandstone. In front of that ridge, we could see the low, grey wall of limestone which formed when a reef ringed a shallow inland sea. Looking to our left (north) on the skyline we could see the Osmand Range which contains 1,400 million year old sandstone and dolomite. This is where the sediments and conglomerate which formed the Bungle Bungle Range originate from. Turning around, to look west, the rolling hills and steep ridges of sandstone, basalt and metamorphosed rocks of the Halls Creek Fault were completely different, but also impressive. The interpretative sign told us that it was through this landscape that we drove in along the Spring Creek Track.
With no access to a power point to charge our second battery AND no sun today to collect rays with our solar panel, Bernie had some concerns about having enough power to keep our fridge and freezer cold overnight. Apart from the one boggy section between Kungkalanyi Lookout and the exit road (now with warning signs and hazard cones) the road condition is pretty good in the southern part of the park. So, to charge the battery up to (at least) 70% we drove out to Elephant Rock again, ha, ha.
Back at the lodge we unpacked our gear from the truck and returned it to our room. Wouldn’t you know it, there hasn’t been ANY rain today. The wettest it got today was at the very end of Mini Palm Gorge and we think that was cloud/mist? The cloud was so low that we think we climbed up into it when we reached the viewing platforms. As long as we don’t have a torrential downpour overnight we are going to get back out to the highway tomorrow without any concerns. Fingers crossed.
Writing up the blog and labelling photos we have been trying to confirm what birds we photographed today. I was proved correct with my bustard guess. The large grey-brown bird was indeed an Australian Bustard, which is also known as the Plains Turkey or Wild Turkey. We think our other bird photograph is of a White-winged Triller, but we’re not as confident about that one.
The other guests that have arrived this afternoon are a Dutch couple who we actually met while watching the sunset at Uluru. With only four here for dinner again tonight, we shared a table with Hein and Bianca. Tonight it was my turn to be challenged by the dinner flavours! It started out OK with pumpkin bread to accompany pumpkin soup. Soup was followed by lamb chops with mash, carrots and beetroot. Again, OK. Desert though was hummingbird cake which involved BANANA. Fortunately, with the pineapple, honey and spices along with the banana and a cream cheese frosting, I was able to manage it. Not too bananery.
Steps: 17,569 (11.08kms)
